The bottom line and the sharp end essay

We had a lot of dead-end days, skiing and stomping through the desert without a glimpse of frozen things to climb. Not knowing what was around the next curve in the canyon or over the next edge was our virtue and also our vice. It kept us waking before dawn to hunt the extremely ephemeral ice. We knew this was our only chance to chase it down.

First ascents, all of them. Here are the best shots from the inimitable Andrew Burr. Pictured here are first ascensionists Scott Adamson climbing and Angela Van Wiemeersch at the very start of the route.

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Angela Van Wiemeersch cruises Corn on the Kolob WI4 , which features two foot vertical curtains separated by a narrow ledge—all over a rushing creek. The day starts and ends in blackness, and coffee before dawn is not only common but a requirement. Drive from trailhead to trailhead with lights on, trying to get the bulk of climbing done before the sun peeks out to keep the ice frozen and hard.

What I would call some real John Wayne shit. Colors of atom bomb magnitude. Before a tool was ever lifted, the name Nuclear Sunrise was born. I was hooked, and I knew there must be more—much more. From the bottom, climb thin slabs to steep bulges that create gaps in the ice that must be reached past with no feet—get your ice campus on! Belay when the ice gets fat and then take the icy football field to the top.

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After some rope and anchor shenanigans to get established on the route, I realized Scott was tied in but not on belay. Luckily for all, I was able to rappel down, and at the end of the line, the last rung of my aider provided an angel from above.

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The French call a gully in the rock a goulet—another route that was named before a pick was ever swung. Lower Marilyn WI4 feet Walking around the outer reaches of Zion, my sense of discovery is a raw, visceral experience. Hours turn into days, and we walk on. Rounding a corner and finding an ice flow draped over the rim and stretching to the canyon floor is a sight to behold, and not knowing it was there makes it even more special.

This hanging slot canyon has bolted anchors for the summer folk, and during the FA, the top meter column had baked in the sun, fallen off, and was laying useless in the bottom of the canyon.

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Thankfully, a rope was left fixed at the top to jumar back out. The complete meter line will be a real prize. Drivable in the summer, not so in the winter—this is the good i. Four-wheel drive, chains on all four tires, and a lead foot will get you through Scott Adamson bravely takes a look at the few hundred feet of air and thin ice below him as he hucks a solo lap on Nuclear Sunrise WI5.

The location of Celestial Fraud WI5 is just above Kolob Creek, and it was named after an old, infamous canyoneering poster that purposely mislabeled the named waterfall Celestial Falls in order to hide the real location of the canyon and rappel. It seems like she can hold on forever, or maybe time just stands still as you watch the graceful beauty of her movement. On this particular day, we rapped down into this slot slightly above the raging water that was splashing up just enough to reach our heels.

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The message of the short story “The Bottom Line and the Sharp End”

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